“Wagyu” Co-Being with “Wajin”
“和人” とともに在る“和牛”。

[Japan Style – November 2024 Issue]

Throughout the world, food cultures rooted in the natural environment have developed in different regions. For example, northern Europe, including northern England and Ireland, is cold and has many grasslands, making it suitable for cattle and sheep grazing. As a result, livestock farming has developed as an important industry.
地球上では、各地で風土に根ざした食文化が育まれてきました。例えば、イギリス北部、アイルランドなどを含むヨーロッパ北部は寒冷で牧草地が多く、牛や羊の放牧に適していることから牧畜が重要な産業として発展しました。

In Japan as well, Hokkaido, with its cool climate similar to northern Europe, takes advantage of its vast land for dairy farming. The number of dairy cattle raised there is overwhelming, and the production of raw milk, the base for dairy products, accounts for more than 50% of the nation’s total. Hokkaido also ranks first in the country for beef cattle production, but there is not much production of what is considered “Wagyu.”
日本でも、ヨーロッパ北部に似た冷涼な気候の北海道では、広大な土地を生かして酪農が盛んです。特に乳牛の飼育頭数は圧倒的で、乳製品の原料となる生乳の生産量は全国の50％超。肉牛生産でも全国1位ですが、いわゆる「和牛」とされる肉用牛の生産は多くありません。

The place considered the origin of “Wagyu” is Niimi City in Okayama Prefecture. In Niimi City, known for producing high-quality iron sand, farmland was limited, so livestock farming developed as a substitute industry during the Edo period. The cattle raised in this area later became the foundation for Wagyu, which spread nationwide and was gradually improved into what is now known as “Wagyu.”
「和牛」の発祥とされているのが岡山県新見市です。良質な砂鉄の産出地として知られた新見市では耕作地が限られていたため、江戸時代に畜産が代替産業として発展しました。この地で飼育された牛が後に和牛の基礎となって全国へと広がり、現在の「和牛」へと改良されていきました。

The three most famous Wagyu brands—Kobe beef, Matsusaka beef, and Omi beef—are known for their beautiful cut surfaces and tenderness. The “Tajima beef” (from the Tajima region of Hyogo Prefecture), which forms the basis of many of these well-known brands, is famous for its long history of bloodline management and breed improvement. In the Kyushu region, brands like “Miyazaki beef” and “Kagoshima Kuro-ushi” (black cattle) are famous for maintaining Wagyu’s superior bloodline while incorporating local breed improvements, and in the Tohoku region, “Yamagata beef” and “Maesawa beef” are well-known.
三大銘柄と言われる神戸ビーフ、松阪牛、近江牛は切断面が美しく、柔らかさが特徴です。これらの知名度が高いブランド牛の多くの基になっている「但馬牛」（兵庫県但馬地方）は、血統管理や品種改良の歴史が深いことで知られています。九州地方では、和牛の優れた血統を引き継ぎつつ地域特有の改良が施されたブランド牛「宮崎牛」や「鹿児島黒牛」が、東北地方では「山形牛」や「前沢牛」が有名です。

In Japan, from the birth of a calf to when it becomes meat, everyone involved treats the cattle with great care, paying close attention and showing affection. Each calf is registered with a name, birthdate, bloodline—including parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents—where it was born, and who raised it. Each cow is given an individual identification number. This thoroughly managed traceability (production history) provides peace of mind.
日本では、牛の誕生から食肉になるまで、全ての関わる人たちが丁寧に細やかに心を配り、愛情を注いで扱います。生まれた子牛の名前、生年月日、両親、祖父母、祖父母の父母までの血統、どこの牛農家で生まれ誰が育てたのかといった戸籍があり、1頭ごとに個体識別番号が与えられます。きっちり管理されたトレーサビリティ（生産履歴）は、安心感につながります。

Cattle farmers put their hearts into raising the cattle. In addition to grains, they feed the cows rice straw that has been aged for one to two years, and the 20 to 50 liters of water they drink daily is natural spring water. In summer, when the cows’ appetite decreases, they are even given beer. Farmers brush the cows every morning without fail, massage them with shochu, shampoo them to make their coats glossy, and in winter, they even splash cold water on the cows to stimulate the growth of soft, fluffy winter fur. Through constant trial and error, farmers spare no effort or labor.
牛農家は心を砕いて育てます。穀類のほか、１～2年熟成させた稲わらを食べさせたり、1日に20～50リットル飲む水は天然水、食欲が落ちる夏はビールを飲ませたりします。ブラッシングは毎朝欠かさず、焼酎を使って全身をマッサージ。毛並みを美しくするためにシャンプーをし、冬はあえて冷たい水をかけて身体を冷やしてふわふわの冬毛が生えてくるようにするなど、手間と労力を惜しまず試行錯誤を繰り返してきました。

Cattle that are carefully raised like family by skilled and dedicated producers have calm expressions and beautiful physiques. It is said that the better the cow looks, the better the meat tastes. When it’s time for shipment, farmers reportedly pray, saying, “Thank you for growing up so well. Now, please go on to sustain the lives of many people.” They feel pride in raising cows that will become essential to human life and express gratitude to the cows for supporting human existence.
生産者の技術と人柄で家族のように大切に育てられた牛は、顔つきが穏やかで体軀も美しくなります。牛は見た目に比例して肉の味も良くなるのだそうです。出荷となり送り出す時、「ここまで育ってくれてありがとう。この先はたくさんの人の命になってくれ」と祈るのだとか。牛農家は、人間の命を支えてくれる牛に感謝しながら、育てた牛がみんなの命になることに誇りを持って育てています。

Today, “Japanese Wagyu” has become incredibly popular worldwide and is recognized as Japan’s finest food product. The characteristic of “Japanese Wagyu” lies in its “marbled meat,” where fat is interwoven like a web among the lean meat, creating a melt-in-your-mouth richness. This is rare overseas and has garnered high praise. The tender meat, which can be cut with chopsticks, and the sweet fat that spreads in your mouth can only be experienced with Wagyu raised in Japan.
今や「日本の和牛」は世界で大人気となり、日本が誇る最高の食材となりました。「日本の和牛」の特徴は、赤身の間に網の目のように入ったサシ（脂肪）がとろけるような旨みを生み出す「霜降り肉」にあります。これは海外では珍しく、高い評価を得ています。箸で切れるほどに軟らかく、口の中に甘さが広がる良質な肉の脂は、日本で育てられた和牛でしか味わえません。

Looking around the world now, Wagyu crossbred with Japanese bloodlines, known as Wagyu, is flourishing overseas. Australia, in particular, is the largest producer of Wagyu and has gained significant recognition. However, it is a completely different product from the Wagyu produced in Japan. Japanese Wagyu, raised with the passion and dedication of farmers who tend to their cattle daily, offers a deep flavor, smooth texture, and melt-in-your-mouth harmony that will be etched in your memory once you taste it.
今、世界を見渡すと、和牛の遺伝子を交配した海外産のWagyuが幅を利かせています。特にオーストラリアは最大のWgyu生産国で、知名度も高いのが現状ですが、日本で生産される和牛とは全くの別物です。真摯に日々牛に向き合う生産者の情熱とこだわりが込められた和牛は、一度口にすれば奥深い風味と滑らかな舌触り、とろける口当たりのハーモニーが記憶に刻み込まれることでしょう。