A Tradition to Cool Down the Summer
夏を冷やす風物詩

Kakigoori (shaved ice) is a typical Japanese summer food. The word “kaki” is derived from “かく,” which means to shave off a piece of something hard.

日本の夏を代表する食べ物、かき氷。この「かき」は、固いものの一部を削ったり割ったりする「かく」に由来します。

In the past, a carpenter’s tool called a kanna (Japanese hand planer) was used to shave ice. Today, shaving methods have diversified, creating differences in appearance, texture, and taste. Among these, the most popular remains the shaved ice that’s thin and delicate, much like it was shaved with a kanna, and topped with a syrup that makes the best use of colorful seasonal ingredients.

かつては、氷を削るのにかんなという大工道具が使われていました。現代では削り方が多様化し、見た目や食感、味わいにも違いが生まれています。そんな中でも、やはり人気を呼ぶのは、かんなで削ったような薄く繊細な氷に、いろとりどりの旬の食材をそのまま活かしたシロップがかけられたかき氷です。

The cover art for this issue is also reminiscent of just such a universal summer tradition. It shows the respect for Japanese traditions and culture that Gakyojin
BUNTA iNOUE has for them.

今回の表紙絵も、まさにそんな普遍的な夏の風物詩を思わせるもの。画狂人 井上文太氏の、日本の伝統や文化への敬意が表れています。

Fresh and refreshing iced sweets are well suited to the hot and humid Japanese summer.

高温多湿の日本の夏には、瑞々しく爽やかな氷菓子がよく似合います。

Text: SAWAGUCHI Natsuki
文：澤口夏紀

“Shaved ice” All Year Round

年がら年中、「かき氷」

The highlight of Tokyo Midtown Yaesu, a large-scale complex that opened this spring in front of Tokyo Station, is a store called “Kakigouri (shaved Ice) Collection Baton,” where renowned shaved ice shops from all over Japan take turns appearing. The opening act featured Himitsudo, a specialized shaved ice store in Yanaka, Bunkyo City. This popular establishment is known for its handcrafted syrup made from fresh fruits, attracting fans from across Japan. It’s surprising to find a dedicated shaved ice store, but what’s even more astonishing is that they operate year-round, serving customers not only in the hot summer months but also during the cold winter season. Regardless of the time of year, there is always a line of people eagerly waiting to indulge.

この春、東京駅の駅前に誕生した大規模複合施設、東京ミッドタウン八重洲の目玉は、「かき氷コレクション・バトン」という店舗で、日本各地の有名かき氷店がここにかわるがわる登場します。オープニングを飾ったのは、文京区・谷中のかき氷専門店「ひみつ堂」。生の果物を使った手作りの蜜が特徴で、日本中からファンが訪れる人気店です。かき氷の専門店があるだけでも驚きですが、夏だけでなく寒い冬も通年営業していて、いつ行っても行列ができています。

When I was a child, “shaved ice” was something we ate at summer festivals and often at home. We would shave with the ice made in the freezer with a shaved ice machine, which was available in every house in those days, and pour commercially available red-colored syrup over the ice. In the mid-summer afternoon, when the wind chimes hanging from the eaves of the houses were tinkling, the shaved ice that melted in my mouth was so cold that it cooled me down from the inside and made me feel comfortable. The shaved ice was also available at soba noodle restaurants. By the time I arrived home, about half of the shaved ice had melted, and I ate it while laughing with my family, saying, “It’s melted a lot.”

私が子どもの頃、「かき氷」は夏祭りで食べるものであり、家でもよく食べました。当時どこの家にもあったかき氷機で、冷凍庫で作った氷をガリガリと削り、市販の赤い色のシロップをかけます。軒につるした風鈴がチリリンと鳴る真夏の昼間、口の中でヒュッと溶けるかき氷は、冷たくて身体が内側から涼しくなって心地よかったものです。お蕎麦屋さんの出前にもかき氷がありました。家に到着する頃には半分ぐらい溶けていて、「ずいぶん溶けてるね」と家族と笑い合いながら食べました。

It has now become a year-round sweet treat. Specialty stores are particular about the type of ice, how it is shaved, and syrups, and offer a wide variety. Another reason for their popularity is that their appearance and the various toppings they are decorated with make them look good on Instagram. The creators’ tireless creativity attracts customers, and there is always a line out the door at popular restaurants. There are even prices for a proper meal, such as over 2,000 yen.

それが今や、年間通して食べられるスイーツになりました。専門店は、氷の種類や削り方、シロップにこだわり、バリエーションも豊富です。また、見た目や、飾り付けられているさまざまなトッピングがインスタ映えするのも人気の理由のひとつでしょう。作り手たちのたゆまぬ創意工夫は客を集め、人気店はどこも行列が絶えません。2,000円を超えるなど、ちょっとしたご飯が食べられる価格のものまであります。

In fact, shaved ice has been enjoyed in Japan during the summer since the Heian period (8-12 centuries). Just imagine how precious and luxurious it must have been to preserve naturally formed ice during winter and savor it until summer. Then, during the Meiji period (19-20 centuries), shaved ice with brightly colored red and yellow syrups became a seasonal tradition.

 実は、日本では平安時代（8～12世紀）から夏にかき氷を食べていました。冬に自然にできた氷を夏まで保存しておいて食べるなんて、どれほど貴重で贅沢なものだったかは、想像するに余りあります。そして明治時代（19～20世紀）、赤や黄の色鮮やかなシロップがかけられたかき氷は季節の風物詩となりました。

In Sei Shonagon’s essay “The Pillow Book,” there is a line that says, “Shaved ice with amazura (sweetened kudzu) in it…” This refers to shaved ice with a sweet syrup made by boiling down a plant called amazura. In other words, it is considered an elegant delicacy. Additionally, a collection of laws and ordinances from the Heian period (794-1185) mentions the existence of ten “icehouses,” mainly located in Kyoto. These icehouses were huts built over dug-out holes where winter ice was stored until summer. In the past, they were guarded by watchmen called “Himuro-mori.” The use of icehouses dates back to the Nara period (8th century), and the “Chronicles of Japan” even mentions the offering of ice to the emperor. The site is now home to the Himuro Shrine, dedicated to the deity protecting the ice.

清少納言の随筆「枕草子」には「削り氷[けずりひ]にあまづら入れて……」とあり、削った氷に甘葛[あまづら]と呼ばれる植物を煮詰めて作った甘い汁を入れた「あてなるもの」つまり上品なものと書かれています。また、平安時代の法令集には、「氷室」が京都を中心に10カ所あったとあります。氷室は穴を掘ったその上に作った小屋で、冬にできた氷を夏まで貯蔵しておくところです。かつては氷室守（ひむろもり）と言われる番人が見張っていました。奈良時代（8～世紀）にすでに使われていたようで、「日本書紀」には天皇に氷を献上したと記されています。その地は現在、氷を守る神様をまつった氷室神社になっています。

Currently, only a few breweries in Japan produce this type of natural ice. After the summer season, the brewery starts preparing a dedicated “ice pond” and gradually draws water from the mountains during the extremely cold period. Once the ice begins to form, daily tasks such as sweeping away fallen leaves and inspecting the pond to prevent it from breaking due to the ice’s expansion become crucial. After about two weeks, when the ice reaches a thickness of 14 to 15 centimeters, it is carefully cut out, pulled from the pond, and transported to the icehouse for storage. Most of these tasks are done manually, using tools that have been ingeniously crafted through generations. Once the first round of cutting is complete, the process of creating the second round of ice begins. As the ice slowly forms in the harsh natural environment, it not only becomes transparent and beautiful, but it also locks in the delicious taste of the water, resulting in an exceptional flavor.

こうした天然氷を作る蔵元は、現在、全国に数軒しかありません。夏が過ぎたら氷を作る専用の「氷池（ひいけ）」の整備を始め、極寒の時期に山から少しずつ水を引き入れます。氷が張り始めたら毎日、何度も落ち葉を掃いたり、氷の膨張力で池が壊れないように点検をするなど目が離せません。2週間ほど経ち、氷が14～15センチの厚さになったら切り出し、池から引き揚げ、細心の注意を払って氷室に運び込み、保存します。それら作業のほとんどが人力で、道具も代々工夫された手作りです。1回目の切り出しが終わると、2回目の氷づくりを始めます。厳しい自然の中でゆっくり氷になると、透明で美しい上に、水の美味しさが氷に閉じ込められ、その味は格別です。

In contrast to natural ice, pure ice, produced by ice companies, comes in various types depending on the source of water and the freezing process duration. Thanks to Japanese technology, this artificially created pure ice captures the fascination of people from abroad and is even exported to the U.S.

天然氷に対して、製氷会社が製造するのが純氷（じゅんぴょう）で、どこの水を使うか、どのくらい時間をかけて凍らせるかなどにより、種類は豊富です。日本の技術で人工的に作られた純氷は、海外の人も魅了し、アメリカにも輸出されています。

The current popularity of shaved ice began in the 1990s. It all started when “Shogetsu Icehouse” in Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture, recognized the excellence of natural ice. They opened their own shaved ice shop, which gained a reputation for its soft and fluffy texture, unlike the previous crunchy ones, and its syrup with a rich fruit flavor. In 2003, a year-round shaved ice specialty shop was born. Then, around 2011, specialty shops using natural ice was opened in Tokyo, and the trend quickly spread and took root in the city. Shaved ice has become particularly popular among women in their 20s who appreciate its resemblance to a parfait but with lower calories since it’s made of ice. Some shops offer different daily menus and adjust the amount of sugar in the syrup according to the weather, ensuring high satisfaction among repeat customers.

今のかき氷人気は1990年代に始まりました。天然氷[てんねんごおり]の素晴らしさに気付いた蔵元「松月氷室」（栃木県日光市）などが、かき氷の直営店を始めると、氷の食感がそれまでのシャリシャリではなくふわふわの口どけであることや、果汁感あるシロップが評判となりました。2003年には一年中営業するかき氷専門店が誕生。2011年頃から東京都内に天然氷を使った専門店がオープンすると一気に広がり、定着していきました。「パフェみたいだけど氷だからカロリーが低い」と、20代女子に特に人気です。お店によっては毎日違うメニューが並び、天候によってシロップの砂糖の量を変えたりするのでリピーターも大満足。

With an increasing range of options for the most crucial ingredient, improved shaving techniques, a wide variety of syrup ingredients, and a focus on different textures and flavor nuances, all stores are captivating the hearts of fans with their unique and original shaved ice creations. This fleeting delicacy that melts within minutes is infused with traditional craftsmanship, cutting-edge technology, and the passion of its creators.

一番重要な氷の選択肢が増え、削りの質も向上し、シロップにも多種多様な素材を使い、食感の違いや味わいのアクセントなどにもこだわり、どの店もオリジナリティにあふれたかき氷でファンの心をつかんでいます。数分で溶けてしまう儚い食べ物に、伝統の技と最新技術、そして作り手の情熱が込められています。

文:岩崎由美

Writer: Yumi Iwasaki