加賀百万石の城下町――金沢

[From December Issue 2011]

 

Many Japanese people associate Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture with the phrase, “Kaga hyakuman goku.” Used up until the Edo period, Kaga is the old name for Kanazawa and the surrounding area. One koku is the amount of rice consumed by the average adult in a year, and hyakuman goku is a million times that amount. The phrase shows just how rich an agricultural area Kanazawa was.

This expression, used in the samurai era, is still the city’s catch phrase. It indicates that Kanazawa is a famous castle town (a town that thrived around a castle). To get around the city, it’s convenient to use sightseeing buses called “Jokamachi Kanazawa Shuyu Bus” available from JR Kanazawa Station. There are three different buses named after three of Kanazawa’s famous literary masters: Kyoka, Saisei, and Shusei.

In Higashi Chaya-gai (East Teahouse District), rows of houses from the Edo period still remain to this day, making it a popular spot among non-Japanese tourists as well. The district was established when the Kaga Domain, which governed Kanazawa in the Edo period, assembled and maintained ochaya teahouses (eating establishments where geisha entertained customers by playing traditional musical instruments such as the koto and shamisen and by performing dances) in the area. In addition to the teahouses that have been in business since the old days, unique restaurants, cafes, general stores and ryokan (Japanese-style inns) stand side by side.

In Higashi Chaya-gai, there are some general stores which deal in gold leaf. Gold leaf is gold that has been beaten repeatedly into a sheet thinner than a piece of paper. It’s one of the traditional crafts in Kanazawa made with the same method that has been passed down through the ages. If gold leaf were made using only gold, it would be too soft, so it’s mixed with small amounts of silver or copper. Initially encouraged by the Kaga Domain, nearly all gold leaf production in Japan is now based in Kanazawa.

Because there’s an East Teahouse District, it follows that there’s also an West Teahouse District. Nishi Chaya-gai is adjacent to an area with many temples. The most famous of those temples is Myoryuji Temple. With a number of architectural tricks in place to deceive intruders – such as trap doors, hidden staircases and rooms – it’s been nicknamed the “Ninja Temple.” What’s more, the temple looks like a two-story building from the outside, but once inside, you discover it has four floors.

To the south west of Higashi Chaya-gai is Kenroku-en, the most famous tourist spot in Kanazawa. Not only is it well-known in Kanazawa, but it’s one of the most famous gardens in Japan. Originally a “daimyo teien” – a garden built by feudal lords in the Edo period for their personal pleasure – now that the daimyo are a thing of the past, Kenroku-en is open to the public. A common sight in Kenroku-en during winter is yuki-tsuri: branches tied together with rope in order to prevent them from breaking under the weight of fallen snow.

Right next to Kenroku-en is Kanazawa Castle Park. These are the ruins of the castle previously owned by the Maeda family, who used to be the rulers of the Kaga Domain. Its gates and turret (a part of the castle built to watch for enemies and defend against attack) have been restored to look as they did in the Edo period. Based on old plans, pictures and documents, as well as on research findings, they were reproduced, down to the last detail according to the original construction techniques.

Preserved since the Edo-period, Ishikawa-mon is a gate leading from Kenroku-en to Kanazawa Castle Park. Since the gate is the oldest structure in the park and looks so magnificent, many people mistakenly believe that it’s the ote-mon (the front gate), but it’s actually the karamete-mon (the rear gate). The karamete-mon is the gate used by the lord to escape from the castle in case it becomes impossible to defend against an enemy attack, and it’s designed in such a way that it can be guarded by a small group of people.

For those who would like to experience modern Kanazawa in addition to the traditional Japanese scenery that remains in the city, we recommend the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa, located at walking distance from Kenroku-en and Kanazawa Castle Park. The building is circular with glass walls surrounding it on all sides, and many of its exhibition spaces are accessible free of charge. The most famous work of art there is “Swimming Pool” located on the patio. Looking at the water from above gives the illusion that other visitors below are standing on the bottom of the pool.

Near Minami-cho, a business district in Kanazawa, is the Oyama Shrine. This shrine has a rare feature not seen in any other shrine in Japan: stained glass is used for the windows at the top part of its shin-mon (main gate). The lightening rod standing on its rooftop is also unique to this shrine. The shin-mon is lit up at night.

Oyama Shrine is dedicated to MAEDA Toshiie – the first lord and founder of the Kaga Domain – and his wife Matsu. In the grounds of the shrine you can find a bronze statue of young Toshiie. Riding on his horse, a cloak hanging from his back swells in the wind. This cloak is called a horo and is intended to protect its wearer against arrows shot from behind. As it stands out on the battlefield, the cloak is only worn by samurai that are considered skilled by their master and as such, wearing one is a mark of honor.

Omi-cho Ichiba, north of Oyama Shrine, is the most famous market in Kanazawa. There you can find eating and drinking establishments, many of which serve sushi made from fresh seafood. A fish unique to Kanazawa is nodoguro (literally translated as “black throat”). It is an expensive fish, and the inside of its mouth is black, as its name suggests. Snow crabs are well-known as a winter delicacy in Kanazawa.

To get to Kanazawa, it is convenient to use Komatsu Airport. Buses go directly from the airport to JR Kanazawa Station, and if you take an express bus, you will arrive at the station in about 40 minutes. Incidentally, Komatsu City, where this airport is located, is the birthplace of Komatsu Ltd., a world-famous company which manufactures heavy machinery.

Photos courtesy by Kanazawa City

Text: MATSUMOTO Seiya

[2011年12月号掲載記事]

 

金沢(石川県)というと、多くの日本人が「加賀百万石」という言葉を連想します。「加賀」とは、金沢とその周辺地域の旧国名(江戸時代以前の地名)。「1石」は「米を基準にして計算した場合、大人1人が1年間に食べる米の量」で、百万石はその100万倍。それくらい豊かな地域だったということです。

武士の時代の言葉が、今でもキャッチコピーになっていることからもわかるとおり、金沢は日本でも有名な城下町(城を中心に栄えた町)です。そんな金沢を巡るには、JR金沢駅から乗れる周遊バス(城下まち金沢周遊バス)を利用するのが便利。3種類のバスには、金沢出身の代表的な文豪3人の名前(鏡花・犀星・秋声)が付けられています。

「ひがし茶屋街」は、江戸時代からの町並みが現代まで残っていて、外国人観光客にも人気のスポットです。江戸時代に金沢を治めていた「加賀藩」が、このあたりのお茶屋(芸妓の琴や三味線や踊りなどを楽しむ飲食店)を集めて整備したのがはじまり。当時から続くお茶屋をはじめ、個性的なレストランや喫茶店・雑貨屋・旅館などが軒を連ねています。

 

ひがし茶屋街には、金箔を扱った雑貨屋もあります。金箔とは、金を何度もたたいて紙よりも薄くのばしたもの。金沢の伝統工芸品(昔から伝わる方法で作られた芸術品)のひとつです。金100%だと柔らかすぎるので、わずかに銀や銅を混ぜています。金沢では加賀藩が推奨したのがはじまりで、現在では、日本の金箔のほとんどが金沢で生産されています。

ひがし茶屋街があるからには「にし茶屋街」もあります。にし茶屋街は、お寺の多い地域に隣接。最も有名なのは「妙立寺」です。落とし穴・隠し階段・隠し部屋など、敵をだますしかけがあることから、通称「忍者寺」と呼ばれています。おまけに、外からは2階建てに見えるのに、中に入ると4階建てになっています。

ひがし茶屋街から南西へ向かうと、金沢で最も有名な観光名所「兼六園」があります。金沢のみならず、日本を代表する庭園のひとつです。もともとは大名庭園――歴代の藩主(江戸時代の領主)たちが個人的に楽しむために造った庭――でしたが、藩主がいなくなった現在では一般公開されています。兼六園の冬の風物詩といえば「雪吊」です。木の枝に雪が積もって折れるのを防ぐために、枝をまとめて縄で縛るのです。

 

兼六園のすぐ隣には「金沢城公園」があります。加賀藩の藩主だった前田家の城跡(城があった場所)で、江戸時代の門や櫓(敵への見張りや防御のために建築された城の一部)などが復元されています。復元にあたっては、現在まで残っている絵図・写真・文献や調査結果などを踏まえた上で、当時の建築方法を細部にわたって再現しています。

兼六園から金沢城公園へと通じる「石川門」は、江戸時代から残っている門です。公園内で最も歴史が古く、見た目も立派なので、多くの人が勘違いしていますが、実は大手門(表門)ではなく搦手門(裏門)です。搦手門は、敵が城に攻めてきて守り切れなかった場合、藩主が城の外へ逃げるときに使う門で、少人数で警備できる設計になっています。

 

昔の日本の風景が残る金沢もいいけれど、現代的な金沢も見たいという人には、兼六園や金沢城公園から歩いて行ける距離にある「金沢21世紀美術館」がおすすめです。建物は円形の総ガラス張りで、無料で入場できるスペースも多いです。有名なオブジェは、中庭にある「スイミング・プール」。水面をのぞくと、プールの底に人が沈んでいる錯覚を楽しめます。

南町という金沢のオフィス街の近くには、「尾山神社」があります。この神社には、他の日本の神社には見られない珍しい特徴があります。それは、この神社の正門である「神門」の最上部の窓に、ステンドグラスが使われていることです。その屋根のてっぺんに避雷針が立っていることも、神社としては個性的です。この神門は、夜にはライトアップされています。

尾山神社には、加賀藩を創設した最初の藩主である前田利家と、妻・まつが奉られています。神社の敷地には、若き日の利家の銅像があります。馬で駆ける利家は、風でふくらんだ布を背負っています。これは「母衣」といい、背後からの敵の弓を防ぎます。戦場では目立つ格好なので、主人に有能と認められた武士が着る、名誉な装備で
した。

尾山神社の北にある「近江町市場」は、金沢で最も有名な市場です。飲食店が集まっていて、新鮮な魚介類を寿司として提供している店も数多くあります。金沢ならではの魚と言えば「のどぐろ」。その名の通り、口の中が黒い高級魚です。冬の味覚としては、ズワイガニが有名です。

 

金沢へのアクセスは小松空港を利用するのがいいでしょう。小松空港からJR金沢駅への直通バスが運行していて、特急バスなら約40分で到着します。ちなみに、この空港がある小松市は、重機の製造で世界的に有名な企業「KOMATSU」発祥の地です。

写真提供:金沢市

文:松本誠也

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