Travel in Japan
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Izu Oshima: Tokyo's Own Island Getaway
Usually, when people think of Tokyo, they imagine an overcrowded metropolis. Some, at least city-dwellers, don’t necessarily consider it an ideal vacation spot. In fact, Tokyo Prefecture is home to a chain of 11 major islands, the Izu Island group and the Ogasawara group, stretching to the south as far as 1,033 kilometers away. Oshima, the largest and closest to Tokyo, sports its own active volcano, Mt. Mihara, adding a dramatic facet to Tokyo Prefecture’s already impressive resumé.
Mt. Mihara, also nicknamed “Gojinka” (god of eruption), last had a major eruption on November 15, 1986, when it spewed lava into the air and in red-hot rivers flowing down from its rim. All the 10,000 inhabitants escaped the island that day and had to live in shelters for a month.
At 758 meters, Mt. Mihara is an easy stroll from the trail entrance to the top and features a large, distinct crater that one can hike around in about one hour. At the rim, is a small observation building and Mihara Shrine, which astonishingly survived the ‘86 blast undamaged.
Behind the mountain is the Urasabaku “wasteland,” a large, striking swath of black sand and rocks, remnants of the magma churned up from the earth. The area has an otherworldly beauty to it, quite a contrast to the rest of the island. The region is easy to walk but can only be reached by four-wheel drive vehicle or a longer walk from the road.
Oshima’s softer side and other claim to fame is its abundance of Camellia trees. Their blooming season lasts from January to March, which although possibly a chilly time to visit, coincides with the clearest weather of the year, providing excellent views of Mt. Mihara, the surrounding nature, and Mt. Fuji in the distance.
Oshima boasts upwards of 450 types of Camellia tree, which typically exhibit red or white flowers. While they can be found all over the island, probably the best place to see the trees in bloom is Oshima Park. At the Camellia Museum there, you can get information on the different practical uses of the oil extracted from the Camellia seed. At the same location, during blooming season, is the Camellia Festival, from the end of January to the end of March.
Oshima has its fair share of museums to visit too. The Izu-Oshima Museum of Volcanoes is easily the biggest and most elaborate museum on the island. Inside are numerous, well-designed exhibits, not only explaining Mihara, but volcanoes from around the world, with scores of pictures, video and rock samples. English descriptions accompany most of the displays.
If something more active is desired, physical activities like scuba diving or cycling can be done, but for a more traditional Japanese experience, the Furusato Taikenkan allows visitors to learn to play Japan’s taiko drums. It’s a lot of fun and not too difficult, given the fairly easy routine they teach. The whole session costs 1,050 yen, or 2,100 yen to keep the bachi (drum sticks), a more unique souvenir compared to the typical keychain or local cookies.
With an active volcano in the middle of the island, it should be of no surprise that Oshima has its fair share of onsen (hot springs). The outdoor ones usually face Mt. Mihara or the sea. Next to Motomachi Hama no Yu (Seaside Hot Spring) is a curious sight. A large, stone bust of Godzilla (Gojira in Japanese), Japan’s internationally famous monster, sits in the middle of a small park with a sign querying, “Why is Godzilla here? Do you Know?” The sign goes on to explain that Toho Studios chose Oshima’s volcano as the site of Godzilla’s final imprisonment in their 1984 film, simply titled “Gojira.” The sign finally warns not to wake the monster from its sleep.
English on Oshima is hit or miss, although there is a concerted effort underway to make Oshima more English-friendly for foreign visitors. At the port of Motomachi, for example, a well-marked map of the island greets guests as they walk out of the port building. Also nearby is a small travel information center with limited literature in English. Throughout the island, street and path signs and point-of-interest markers usually display English as well, convenient when driving or cycling. However, museum information has a spottier record, some offering only Japanese.
As far as transportation goes, buses run around the island and to many of the main spots. Rental car is always the most convenient way to go, and there’s relatively little traffic, making it fairly easy driving. Taxis can be found at the ports and can be called upon later if needed. Bicycle and motor scooter rentals are also available. The former is not ideal for the interior’s steep, windy roads, but is great for a relaxing ride by the shore.
Access to Oshima is a little pricey, but there are a few options. Jet foil from Takeshiba Port (Minato Ward, Tokyo) is a practical compromise of price and speed and can get you to the island in about 1 hour and 45 minutes for roughly 16,500 yen (round trip). Airplane, from Haneda Airport, can reach Oshima in a quick 35 minutes, if you don’t mind shelling out 15,000 yen each way. A day trip is possible, but no matter how long you choose to stay or what method you choose to get there, Tokyo’s big island is definitely worthy of some exploration.
(From January Issue 2009)
