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Hakone ― 6 Ways to Explore the Resort in Tokyo’s Backyard
Hakone is a hot-spring resort, popular for generations, located in the center of Fuji Hakone Izu National Park. It is not only a scenic sightseeing spot where people can look up at the nearby Mt. Fuji, but is also well-known for its hot springs. Hakone is always busy with tourists, especially in spring because of the fresh greenery and in autumn because of the crimson leaves. It only takes about 90 minutes to get there from Tokyo either by car or train, so 20 million tourists visit the area annually. It is also a spot for foreign tourists not to miss.
For visiting Hakone, it is convenient to take the Odakyu Line from Shinjuku using the super express train (called the “Romance Car”) to Hakone-Yumoto, the terminal of the line. If you do not have much time, it is recommendable to go to Tenzan Toji-kyo, a day hot spring three kilometers from Hakone-Yumoto. You can take a shuttle bus from the station. This spot is located by the side of a little river running through the valley, and you can have lots of fun bathing in various kinds of hot spring and also enjoying local food.
The main sightseeing route in Hakone runs from Hakone Yumoto to Gora, starting with the Hakone Tozan Railway, which takes you up to the mountains in 40 minutes. In Gora, you can see beautiful flowers in each season in Hakone Gora Park. From there the Hakone Tozan Cable Car takes you up to Sounzan 767 meters above sea level in nine minutes. On the way you will see a magnificent panoramic view including Mt. Fuji in front of you.
It is about 30 minutes from Sounzan to Togendai at the Ashinoko lake side by the Hakone Ropeway. On the way is Oowakudani, where you may feel as if you are in a different dimension as clouds of steam rise constantly from hot springs. The black eggs produced here are famous. They are buried in the ground until they are cooked by highly sulphurous hot-spring water and the eggshells become as black as ink.
From Togendai it is nice to go to Hakonemachi or Motohakone on the Hakone Sightseeing Cruise, a sightseeing boat that takes 30 minutes. For foreigners who are used to seeing vast expanses of nature the lake may seem like a miniature garden. Mt. Fuji is the only high peak among the surrounding mountains, which gives the area a different appearance to that of the Alps where tall mountains spread out in ranges.
Near Hakonemachi is a reconstruction of an Edo-period (1603~1867) checkpoint. It is through this point that rural daimyos (feudal lords) would pass in a procession when traveling to and from Edo (present-day Tokyo), and today such parades are re-enacted annually on November 3rd in Hakone-Yumoto. There are numerous shops that sell souvenirs including traditional crafts near the checkpoint.
From Hakonemachi you can return to Hakone-Yumoto by the Hakone Tozan Bus, or go either to Odawara, where Odawara castle stands, or to Yugawara, a neighboring hot-spring town. From both Odawara and Yugawara stations you can catch JR (Japan Railway) trains. Although Hakone is within a day trip of the metropolitan area, there are plenty of accommodation facilities and you can enjoy hot-spring bathing everywhere in Hakone.
In Hakone there are 17 hot-spring areas, and generally speaking, accommodation facilities are of a high grade. It is common that these facilities provide a room with two meals; however, these days inns which also provide hot-spring bathing only are increasing. Besides these there are also day hot-spring facilities and Hakone Kowakien Yunessun is unique among them. It is located about 20 minutes by bus from Moto-Hakone. You can enjoy swimming in a Mediterranean-themed spa and there are also various hot-springs that everyone from children to adults can enjoy.
There are many restaurants around Hakone and you may like to try the local specialties, including Kumosuke Dumplings and Nanohana Hot-Spring Dumplings. If you can spare more time, make a tour of cultural facilities such as the Hakone Art Museum, Pola Museum of Art, The Hakone Open-Air Museum and Hakone Glass Forest. Japanese pampas grass viewing at Sengokubara is also very popular in autumn.
If you go to Hakone by car, take the Tomei Highway from Tokyo and from Tomei Atsugi use the Odawara-Atsugi Highway to Odawara and then go to Moto-Hakone on the “Turn Pike” toll road. The view of Mt. Fuji seen from the rest house at Daikanzan on the way is said to be the most beautiful. When returning to Tokyo, it is advisable use the Ashinoko Sky Line that runs along the south side of Lake Ashinoko, by way of Otome-Touge to the Tomei Gotenba Intersection. You will be able to enjoy the magnificent views of Mt. Fuji before you, Lake Ashinoko to your right and Sagami Bay to your left.
The Odakyu Free Pass is very useful for a trip to Hakone because you can use six different kinds of transportation with it. Besides this, Odakyu runs a highway bus from Shinjuku and Haneda. If the weather is fine, you will really enjoy the beauty of Hakone. Just be sure to check the forecast before you go.
(From December Issue 2008)
